Napoli to me is a difficult city. A visit to the Campania region most likely would send one to a day trip to Pompeii, for a limoncello on Capri, to the Aragonese Castle on Ischia, but Napoli is no Paris, or Rome, Milan or even New York. It is loud, constantly moving, noble, faded, proud, sly, and does it all in the highest of style, pridefully custom-made just South of Lazio. The wines here tell a similar story. I had the pleasure of meeting the export manager for the Mastroberardino winery, Stephan Moccia, first over a formal presentation of his portfolio, and then for dinner once he found that I still had the 2000 vintage of Naturalis Historia, a benchmark vintage for a wine created as a tribute to Pliny the Elder. Young, handsome and impeccably dressed, Stephan spoke with an infectious passion for both his home and the historic winery he represents. Naturalis Historia, at least in this vintage, is 85% Aglianico and 15% Piedirosso. Characteristically intense, with a trademark Aglianico nose of cigar, leather, violets and berries, and a bit of plum, this red is smooth, refined and elegant. Not the brooding powerful Aglianico of Taurasi, but a well spoken gentleman. As if I wasn't convinced of the fact that Antonio Mastroberardino was responsible for essentially rescuing Campania wine making by safeguarding the region's native grapes during the darkest years, Stephan reminded me that Mastroberadino was awarded the privilege of reintroducing viticulture to the ruins of Pompeii. I got it.
